Please help me, I've Fallen and I CAN'T GET UP? I need advice on scarcity of Valve Cover Bolts | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Please help me, I've Fallen and I CAN'T GET UP? I need advice on scarcity of Valve Cover Bolts

8. 2 in the very back that you may never see, just feel. The EGR big nuts on my EGR tube came right undone. Leave the valve on the intake.
 



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8. 2 in the very back that you may never see, just feel. The EGR big nuts on my EGR tube came right undone. Leave the valve on the intake.

Never see? My GOD, what have I gotten myself into here. And I'm wearing cloth gloves, so I've lost that lovin feeling. I guess I need to switch to nitrile gloves.

Ughhhh, I thought I was there. :O I'll keep trying. The video I seen of the guy removing the two 10mm EGR Valve nuts is using a tool I don't have. A ratcheted u-joint or some other fancy tool. Always easier when you have the perfect tool.

*** EDITED ***: Day-uhm, I finally got the EGR Valve plate bolts loose with a straight ratcheted 10mm socket. It would have been so much easier with a flexible ratchet. But, it's done. And now the thunderstorms have driven me inside so, the Saga continues. I'm almost there.

I still never could see the mysteriously unseen 7th and 8th bolts on the drivers side. Another day maybe. I'm almost there.
 






Never see? My GOD, what have I gotten myself into here. And I'm wearing cloth gloves, so I've lost that lovin feeling. I guess I need to switch to nitrile gloves.

Ughhhh, I thought I was there. :O I'll keep trying. The video I seen of the guy removing the two 10mm EGR Valve nuts is using a tool I don't have. A ratcheted u-joint or some other fancy tool. Always easier when you have the perfect tool.

*** EDITED ***: Day-uhm, I finally got the EGR Valve plate bolts loose with a straight ratcheted 10mm socket. It would have been so much easier with a flexible ratchet. But, it's done. And now the thunderstorms have driven me inside so, the Saga continues. I'm almost there.

I still never could see the mysteriously unseen 7th and 8th bolts on the drivers side. Another day maybe. I'm almost there.
I found the 7th bolt. I cannot for the life of me, find the 8th one. I guess it's on the very back side. Is it possible my Ford Explorer only has 7 intake manifold bolts? I found the 8th bolt by feeling for it. I never could see it.
Also, what's the manufacturer recommended oil type? The person at Walmart told me to use SAE-5W20 but the actual oil cap on my engine shows "SAE-5W30". Of course, somebody could have put the wrong cap on since I bought this vehicle used. As a temporary stop gap does it matter all that much anyway?
 






I found the 7th bolt. I cannot for the life of me, find the 8th one. I guess it's on the very back side. Is it possible my Ford Explorer only has 7 intake manifold bolts? I found the 8th bolt by feeling for it. I never could see it.
Also, what's the manufacturer recommended oil type? The person at Walmart told me to use SAE-5W20 but the actual oil cap on my engine shows "SAE-5W30". Of course, somebody could have put the wrong cap on since I bought this vehicle used. As a temporary stop gap does it matter all that much anyway?
5w-20 / 5w-30 much ado about nothing. I used the former till 150k then switched to the latter, and at 316k it's still going.
 






5w-20 / 5w-30 much ado about nothing. I used the former till 150k then switched to the latter, and at 316k it's still going.
I thought the more viscous 30 would be good since I actually have an oil leak issue. But I think I'm gonna use it anyway since the oil get's changed every 3 months if you do it right. Then think about getting the 30 next time.
 






The 4.0sohc requires 5w-30
 






The 4.0sohc requires 5w-30
Really? What is the reasoning for that? I believe you because that's what my oil cap says. I get conflicting information when I do a Google search.
I finally got the intake manifold off of the engine. What a nightmare. And now the fun part begins. Getting the valve covers off. Do I need to clean the 6 holes on the engine in the screenshot, what are those holes called? Do I just wipe them down with paper towels or just let it be and have the engine oil clean it out when it's back together?
IMG_20240501_174111683.jpg
IMG_20240501_174131108.jpg
 






I cannot for the LIFE OF ME!!!! find the 6 bolts holding the driver's side valve cover on the engine. Do they hide the bolts under other wiring? I can see one or 2 of the bolts but most of them appear to be used as mounting points to hold wiring in place so it's confusing me. Can somebody help me out on this? Do I have to pop off some wires or electrical connections to see the 6 bolts or what?

IMG_20240501_184132773.jpg
IMG_20240501_184147161.jpg
IMG_20240501_184506518.jpg
IMG_20240501_184541444.jpg
 






So here's 3 shots of what I "think" are 3 hidden bolts being used for wiring mount points from front to back on drivers side valve cover:

IMG_20240501_193149077.jpg
IMG_20240501_193157260.jpg
IMG_20240501_193256494.jpg

Are these 3 hidden bolts that I reveal by removing the wiring on them?
 






Yes,. Your bolts are actually studs for the wire looms also. Deep well socket on those. Pull the plastic straight off
 






Don't lose anything in those 6 holes. Who was it that left there 6 towelettes in the 6 holes?
A little of "Earths greatest grease cleaner" on a disposable rag and wipe them out a bit. It can be done quick and easy or get **** about it.
Something is better than nothing.
I'm glad that you got your eighth bolt out of the back of the intake. I didn't.
 






Yes,. Your bolts are actually studs for the wire looms also. Deep well socket on those. Pull the plastic straight off
That knowledge is gold my friend. Thank You!!!! I'm done for tonight but I got the confidence now to get this valve cover off tomorrow!!! Fixing some dinner now.
 












The tolerances for your main and cam bearings Require that 30 wt oil
The valve lash adjusters are also meant for 30 weight oil
The timing chain tensioners require 30 weight oil
The oil pump is designed for 30 weight oil
A very few reasons..
 






Good call @allmyEXes . Agreed , cover those intake passages.

Did you buy new intake gasket set? You should replace them .
No, I should have. The set I bought didn't come with them. I seen another set that did come with them, as they should. I can always take the intake manifold off again a few weeks later and replace them. I'm enjoying the learning process here.

Yes, I did cover the 6 holes with some scrap cardboard boxes I cut up. And I closed my hood for the evening.
 






The tolerances for your main and cam bearings Require that 30 wt oil
The valve lash adjusters are also meant for 30 weight oil
The timing chain tensioners require 30 weight oil
The oil pump is designed for 30 weight oil
A very few reasons..

I actually performed an Internet search again on the type of engine oil I need for my Ford Explorer 2006. I wasn't being given conflicting information. I was failing to realize that it's different for V6 and V8. Which the lady at Walmart apparently didn't know even though she works in the oil change department. When I asked her what oil I needed for my 2006 Ford Explorer, the first words out of her mouth should have been, "V6 or V8"? 🤦‍♂️
So, I'll be taking this back first thing tomorrow morning for the exchange of the proper oil for my V6 engine.
 












No, I should have. The set I bought didn't come with them. I seen another set that did come with them, as they should. I can always take the intake manifold off again a few weeks later and replace them. I'm enjoying the learning process here.

Yes, I did cover the 6 holes with some scrap cardboard boxes I cut up. And I closed my hood for the evening.
I guarantee you'll need new gaskets . You really should replace them now. The cost for upper plenum gaskets makes it seem silly to put off.
 






I guarantee you'll need new gaskets . You really should replace them now. The cost for upper plenum gaskets makes it seem silly to put off.
It would be crazy not to.
 



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I guarantee you'll need new gaskets . You really should replace them now. The cost for upper plenum gaskets makes it seem silly to put off.
I don't doubt your good advice. The thing is I'm limited on time and right now I have no ride. Because my car is in pieces. I think it should be almost criminal to sell the package I bought on Amazon without the intake manifold gaskets. But, they offered it, and I fell for it. This is what I bought:

Valve Cover Gaskets without intake manifold gaskets

Here's what I should have bought instead:

Valve Cover and Intake Manifold Gaskets

Ah, hindsight is so 20/20, isn't it so? I guess I can check my local auto parts store and if they sell a gasket kit for my manifold I'll buy it local.

Worst case scenario is that I replace my drivers side valve cover gasket, put it all back together, buy the intake manifold gaskets and then put them in 2 weeks later. Because if you enjoy learning this stuff like I do, the work is not really an issue. I don't do this for a living. I do it 1) for fun, 2) to learn and 3) save money.
 






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