Jordan4461
Member
- Joined
- June 29, 2018
- Messages
- 34
- Reaction score
- 5
- Location
- ZOO Parkway
- City, State
- Asheboro, NC
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Hello folks. I have searched and read a few dozen "where is it" threads regarding the PCV valve, as well as several describing issues with plugged EGR valves and tough removals. The Throttle Position Sensor is a bit more involved than on my Tahoe, but easy enough. Today, I removed all items without breaking anything, and with only minor scrapes to my hands. It helped to have the 2008 Exploder sitting in the garage overnight, with a shop light on a stand and a barrel fan keeping me from losing my cool. Take it slow, and soak everything in liquid wrench that you expect to pull off.
The TPS required pulling off the intake hose and air filter cover. Remove the electrical connector from the TPS, but leave the TPS attached to the throttle body. I removed the throttle body because I wanted to clean and inspect it, replace the gasket (which was coming apart internally) and remove the TPS on the workbench using a Torx bit on a ratchet. I did not strip the heads, did not need to heat the bolts (although they did have blue thread sealant on them, I assume 10 years of use got them hot enough to degrade the sealant) and the TPS came off easily. Ford used 3 10mm bolts on the throttle body attachment flange, and one 8mm bolt on the top left bolt to hold a hanger on. Once the 8mm bolt and hanger is removed, you will find the 4th 10mm bolt waiting to be removed, after which the throttle body comes out. If you try to remove the TPS with the throttle body in place, the odds are that you will strip the Torx heads or snap them off. Be prepared for a gasket replacement for the throttle body.
The PCV valve is located on the driver's side rear valve cover. It is a tight area. I removed the 10mm A/C hose clamp above the brake master cylinder to allow me some wriggle room, pulled the loose Fuel Vapor Separator 3/8" vacuum hose that ties into the inlet air hose that I removed to do the TPS, out from under the PCV hose for some more room. Pulled the 1/2" rubber hose that comes off the top of the PCV valve loose, and turned the whole PCV assembly counter-clockwise until it stopped moving and dropped loose of the valve cover. At this time, the electrical connection was easily removed from the body of the PCV valve. The PCV valve was easier to remove by leaving the clamped hose connected and using it for leverage when turning the PCV valve. Make sure that the O-Ring comes out with the PCV valve.
The EGR valve is attached by two 10mm bolts to the intake. The metal tube that carries hot exhaust gas up from the manifold was easily removed from the EGR Valve body with a 8" Crescent wrench, but I could not break the exhaust nut free, so I just left it as-is. It didn't need to come out anyway. The nuts on all three connections really need liquid wrench applied a couple of times prior to breaking them loose. I plan on using anti-seize on reinstalling this item. The 10mm bolt nearest the passenger fender can be removed with a 3/8 ratchet and socket. The 10mm bolt nearest the driver's fender required me to use a box-end wrench and smack it with a hammer to break it loose. I couldn't get enough room to use a ratchet, so I used a ratcheting-head box-end wrench. This wrench saved some frustration. Moving a nut 1/4-turn at a time takes forever with a fixed box-end.
I don't know what my local dealer would have charged me to do this work, but I figure it would be enough to gas up the Exploder several times. I received satisfaction for my payment, so all is well.
Jordan
The TPS required pulling off the intake hose and air filter cover. Remove the electrical connector from the TPS, but leave the TPS attached to the throttle body. I removed the throttle body because I wanted to clean and inspect it, replace the gasket (which was coming apart internally) and remove the TPS on the workbench using a Torx bit on a ratchet. I did not strip the heads, did not need to heat the bolts (although they did have blue thread sealant on them, I assume 10 years of use got them hot enough to degrade the sealant) and the TPS came off easily. Ford used 3 10mm bolts on the throttle body attachment flange, and one 8mm bolt on the top left bolt to hold a hanger on. Once the 8mm bolt and hanger is removed, you will find the 4th 10mm bolt waiting to be removed, after which the throttle body comes out. If you try to remove the TPS with the throttle body in place, the odds are that you will strip the Torx heads or snap them off. Be prepared for a gasket replacement for the throttle body.
The PCV valve is located on the driver's side rear valve cover. It is a tight area. I removed the 10mm A/C hose clamp above the brake master cylinder to allow me some wriggle room, pulled the loose Fuel Vapor Separator 3/8" vacuum hose that ties into the inlet air hose that I removed to do the TPS, out from under the PCV hose for some more room. Pulled the 1/2" rubber hose that comes off the top of the PCV valve loose, and turned the whole PCV assembly counter-clockwise until it stopped moving and dropped loose of the valve cover. At this time, the electrical connection was easily removed from the body of the PCV valve. The PCV valve was easier to remove by leaving the clamped hose connected and using it for leverage when turning the PCV valve. Make sure that the O-Ring comes out with the PCV valve.
The EGR valve is attached by two 10mm bolts to the intake. The metal tube that carries hot exhaust gas up from the manifold was easily removed from the EGR Valve body with a 8" Crescent wrench, but I could not break the exhaust nut free, so I just left it as-is. It didn't need to come out anyway. The nuts on all three connections really need liquid wrench applied a couple of times prior to breaking them loose. I plan on using anti-seize on reinstalling this item. The 10mm bolt nearest the passenger fender can be removed with a 3/8 ratchet and socket. The 10mm bolt nearest the driver's fender required me to use a box-end wrench and smack it with a hammer to break it loose. I couldn't get enough room to use a ratchet, so I used a ratcheting-head box-end wrench. This wrench saved some frustration. Moving a nut 1/4-turn at a time takes forever with a fixed box-end.
I don't know what my local dealer would have charged me to do this work, but I figure it would be enough to gas up the Exploder several times. I received satisfaction for my payment, so all is well.
Jordan
