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I ended up using SoHK_alumni's suggestion, $4 at a u-pull gets me a new(er) OEM pulley + clutch. Nice and quiet now. I figure my 201,000+ mile ex won't survive another one, but if it does, it's an easy enough swap without the coil.

On my 2000, the field coil still works fine, just the bearings are shot, and the pulley is really wobbly. Do you think I could just swap the pulley / bearings, and leave the current field coil (which seems to be the hardest part of this job)? I'd be willing to shell out the extra $$$ for the...

You mean when it went out? No. When I was replacing the MFS, yes, I moved it a ton wiggling the top piece out. I put it in "run", turned on the left signal, hit the hazards, and was moving it up and down, banging on the relay, pushing on fuses...nothing. Thanks for the suggestion! Has...

Bump...no guesses?

The flasher box (on mine) was yellow, and mounted on a tab above the OBDII connector, under the dash. It slips out of its mount by pushing it towards the passenger side, then you have to release the clip to get it out of the socket. It's a pain, for sure. You have to be an acrobat to see...

Well, the other afternoon I noticed that my turn signals had stopped working, tried the hazards, nothing. Checked all the fuses in the passenger compartment (both of the ones that matter, anyway), and all the fuses in the engine compartment, all tested ok. No brainer I though, MFS. Replaced...

Maybe a broken wire? happened to me once, couldn't tell by looking at it. Maybe swap it around with another, and see if the problem follows.

Yep, IAC, to test, hold the gas pedal down just a little bit, if it keeps running, then it's most likely IAC. Could be a vacuum leak, but IAC is a known (very common) problem.

See this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190171 There has been a few people that mentioned the burning smell when it goes. Here's a pic of where it is: It's the thing with the blue sticker on it. Oh yeah, remove the cruise control actuator right away, I tried...

2 things I can think of: for the clunk when in OD: loose tranny mounting bolts. For the one off the line: slip yoke

2x on the IAC

Does it also sound like you have bad (real bad) spark knock (pinging) between 2500-3000 RPM under load? If so, more likely to be the timing chain problems, new tensioners and oil galley plug may help for a while, but it may be headed south.

Maybe drill/tap the end and put a screw/washer combo on the end?

The last Timken I got from Autozone, $155

Is the Check engine light stay on? If so, you'll need to get a code scanner, and post the codes here. Does it come on when you turn the key to the 'run' position? If no, it's burt out, replace the bulb, and see above. Do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds (the first...

I'd say pulling the plugs would be the first step, and if you have a compression tester, that would help too.

Does it look like something was soldered there? if it got hot, or cracked, you'd see evidence that it was there. If the pads are there, and fresh looking, there was never a part there (different production run, different parts added/removed?) Can you post a picture of your board?

Why replace it, is it bad? I thought the solder joints just went bad, not the resistor itself. 51 ohm resistors at jameco, (I'm guessing it's a 1206 package) are only .005 ea. only problem is that it's a 5000 piece minimum... :eek...

That sounds more like a hvac control problem then, maybe a vacuum problem. That sound (if my guess is correct) is the blend door closing, thus throwing you to all heat. Try this, you say it's fine parked, leave it parked and stick your hands behind heater control panel, and start wiggling...

I would just have gotten a pig-tail to hook up a 2 amp slow charger to my trailer wiring, and back-fed the distribution block. It would give enough juice to work the door solenoids. And if left long enough, it would charge the battery too. No muss, no fuss, no crawling under. Even if...

And you wonder why you get 12mpg...:D:D:D

A woman I work with had this happen with her '02 twice, once under warranty, once out, about 2 years apart. She sold immediately after the second repair, with 98k on the odometer.

For that you would need to have the codes read, autozone does it for free. Just make sure you get the number, not the reason they think (i.e you want to know p141, etc). Then search for that code here, I'm sure you'll find a thread (or two hundred) on any code you come up with. Did the CEL...

If you didn't already, check out this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161590 Sounds right up your alley.

Th flush may help, but it may just be the pump is on it's way out. I think most people just use a turkey baster like apparatus to suck out all they can out of the pump, and refill. That gets most of it.