There are many different types of keyless entry locks on the market. The one being installed has five buttons in a vertical row, and has a 2-3/8" backset on the deadbolt latch. Here is a picture of what comes in the box:
This is the back of the lock with two shafts protruding out:
The upper shaft engages a cam mechanism to change the combination from the inside of the door after the code is entered. This is only used to change the combination. The lower one is the shaft which opens the lock from the inside of the door. It's connected to the large knob. The upper part requires a screwdriver to turn the cam to reset the code.
The steel door has the hinges on the left side, and opens when you push the door. It's a prehung door with two pre-drilled holes:
The door needs to be chiseled out before the deadbolt latch could be installed:
The deadbolt latch is in:
Notice how the deadbolt latch has an arrow showing which way is up. Since the hinge is on the left, the arrow has to point down instead of up. Always test the lock with the deadbolt latch prior to installation. The height of the upper holes will vary depending upon which direction this arrow on the deadbolt faces.The lock requires an additional set of holes for the part that changes the combination. Here is a picture of the upper holes drilled into the door:
The lock has two shafts which need to be cut down to fit the width of the door. Here is a close up picture of the markings on the upper shaft:
This is how you break off the extra part of the shaft:
Everything after this point is straight forward. Connect the strike plate onto the door frame, and select the proper length of the bolts for the lock. There are 4 bolts, and 3 lengths. The correct length for my door was the middle size from this set. Here is the lock installed on the door:
It's a good idea to choose your own combination, and not keep the original factory setting of 2-4 together, and a 3.
This is the back of the lock with two shafts protruding out:
The upper shaft engages a cam mechanism to change the combination from the inside of the door after the code is entered. This is only used to change the combination. The lower one is the shaft which opens the lock from the inside of the door. It's connected to the large knob. The upper part requires a screwdriver to turn the cam to reset the code.
The steel door has the hinges on the left side, and opens when you push the door. It's a prehung door with two pre-drilled holes:
The door needs to be chiseled out before the deadbolt latch could be installed:
The deadbolt latch is in:
Notice how the deadbolt latch has an arrow showing which way is up. Since the hinge is on the left, the arrow has to point down instead of up. Always test the lock with the deadbolt latch prior to installation. The height of the upper holes will vary depending upon which direction this arrow on the deadbolt faces.The lock requires an additional set of holes for the part that changes the combination. Here is a picture of the upper holes drilled into the door:
The lock has two shafts which need to be cut down to fit the width of the door. Here is a close up picture of the markings on the upper shaft:
This is how you break off the extra part of the shaft:
Everything after this point is straight forward. Connect the strike plate onto the door frame, and select the proper length of the bolts for the lock. There are 4 bolts, and 3 lengths. The correct length for my door was the middle size from this set. Here is the lock installed on the door:
It's a good idea to choose your own combination, and not keep the original factory setting of 2-4 together, and a 3.