How to: 2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation

[Motorhogman]

Try using this tool with your fuel line tool.

View attachment 437002

Thanx Pete, I saw that tool on line. I have a pair of mini vise grips on the line where it is crimped and have good leverage to push forward using the edge of my opening. Made a little progress this am. The coupler will now rotate back and forth pretty easily about 15 degrees. Still have rust coming out when I flood it with WD after rotating it. I may have a tool similar to that one. If not I may just buy one. Can't have enough tools.

 

[Pete Deering]

Thanx Pete, I saw that tool on line. I have a pair of mini vise grips on the line where it is crimped and have good leverage to push forward using the edge of my opening. Made a little progress this am. The coupler will now rotate back and forth pretty easily about 15 degrees. Still have rust coming out when I flood it with WD after rotating it. I may have a tool similar to that one. If not I may just buy one. Can't have enough tools.

The clips for the female fuel line connector are replaceable. Keep rotating the connect and spaying lube. Your actions now will save you alot of work in the end.

 

[Motorhogman]

The clips for the female fuel line connector are replaceable. Keep rotating the connect and spaying lube. Your actions now will save you alot of work in the end.

Thanx for the encouragement.. The patience is wearing down. I'm going to stay on it though. It does get easier to rotate the more I work it. Just has about 0 forward movement.. The new unit won't be here for about 7 days. No point in getting drastic.. yet. Like cutting the nylon line and using a barbed coupler.. Good news is all sending unit 6 screws broke loose and feel like they will come out OK.

These are the barbed connectors I was looking at.

Dorman 800-085 Fuel Line Quick Connector That Adapts 3/8 In. Steel To 5/16 In. Nylon Tubing, 2 Pack​

 

[EB4X]

I don't want to bother going through entire thread, but you are using the METAL version of line remover tool (as shown by O.P.) NOT the plastic ones...correct? If plastic that IS the problem....there's just that tiny amount of "flex" in the plastic ones where stubborn lines will NOT release.
Some are still a headache with metal but much more effective....
Here's a inside pic of the four "teeth" holding line on....just for reference... (this from fuel filter) ....it took me an hour just to get one side of that to release whereas the other side released pronto.
(P.S. .....mods please remove P.P. militant ads )

 

[Motorhogman]

I don't want to bother going through entire thread, but you are using the METAL version of line remover tool (as shown by O.P.) NOT the plastic ones...correct? If plastic that IS the problem....there's just that tiny amount of "flex" in the plastic ones where stubborn lines will NOT release.
Some are still a headache with metal but much more effective....
Here's a inside pic of the four "teeth" holding line on....just for reference... (this from fuel filter) ....it took me an hour just to get one side of that to release whereas the other side released pronto.
(P.S. .....mods please remove P.P. militant ads )
View attachment 437008

Yes using metal tool. I can hear the click very clearly when those teeth push back. Took a couple of days of lubricating and working the tool to get there. The coupler rotates freely now. Just no give in the forward direction. I just now put the metal release tool in and secured it with a pair of mini vise grips behind it to keep it engaged and gave it a good soaking with PB Blaster. Back at it tomorrow afternoon. Who would have thought the hardest part of this job would be the "quick disconnect" fitting LOL.. Thanx much for the pictures. OH, what's a PP militant ad ?

 

[Motorhogman]

After several days of spraying PB Blaster and WD 40.. Working the release tool, rotating the connector I'm beginning to feel like the definition of insanity. Doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.

The new fuel pump unit arrived yesterday. Looks like an OEM fit.

I thought the factory fuel line was nylon, it's not. It's braided.

I'm trying to figure out if that Dorman PN 800-063 could be used. $38.00 is a lot of money if it doesn't fit, already buying a line I wouldn't use if it does. . They supply a 5/16 and 3/8 line with quick disconnect fittings.

Thinking about cutting the fuel outlet tube to remove the old pump / sending unit and replacing the line with that kit, if it will fit.

 

[Motorhogman]

Getting closer to drastic action here. I got out the bolt cutters and snipped off the fuel outlet line. Looking into the coupler directly something doesn't look right. Not sure what it is I'm looking at. Does not resemble any pics here or on youtube. So now I have it sitting straight up and filled with PB Blaster. If it doesn't give up and come apart on the next round I'm going to go for the whole braided line with the quick disconnect fitting on it that Dorman makes.

 

[Pete Deering]

Getting closer to drastic action here. I got out the bolt cutters and snipped off the fuel outlet line. Looking into the coupler directly something doesn't look right. Not sure what it is I'm looking at. Does not resemble any pics here or on youtube. So now I have it sitting straight up and filled with PB Blaster. If it doesn't give up and come apart on the next round I'm going to go for the whole braided line with the quick disconnect fitting on it that Dorman makes.
View attachment 437193

It looks like you have two clips, one on each side. Take your release tool push it in and move the connector back and fore till the tool goes in all the way in.

 

[Motorhogman]

T

It looks like you have two clips, one on each side. Take your release tool push it in and move the connector back and fore till the tool goes in all the way in.

Thanx for the reply Pete, That's what I've been doing for a week. I couldn't get a real good picture of the coupler but there is something there around 1:00 o'clock that doesn't resemble the clips.. Almost looks like part of an o ring. May have dislodged it when I was rotating the coupler back and forth.. ? It does seem very hard though when I touch it with a pic.. Still have 0 movement pushing the line forward. Sometimes I hear that "click" when I push the tool in and other times nothing. The weather is crap here the next couple of days so I will just let it soak until Friday.

 

[J_C]

If you have a broken off piece of o-ring, might have to pick that out in pieces? Maybe heat it?

 

[Pete Deering]

If you have a broken off piece of o-ring, might have to pick that out in pieces? Maybe heat it?

It a fuel fitting , no heat.

 

[J_C]

^ Surely by now, all gasoline fumes have been evacuated?

 

[Motorhogman]

I'm not sure what's going on there. It could be heated safely with a heat gun I guess. Not sure it would help though. It's going to sit soaking until Friday afternoon. At that point I'll make a decision on the next step.. Right or wrong.. I don't know if it's a piece o-ring or not. Can't see it well enough. Just doesn't look like the clips I've seen. If I can't get this apart I'll cut the coupler in half on the bench to figure out why it wouldn't come apart. TY all for the suggestions.

 

[J_C]

^ If you think there are fumes, don't use a heat gun either if it has a brushed motor, though most people are pretty sensitive to the smell of gasoline and if they can't smell it, there's not enough fumes to worry about. Another option to heat it is use a soldering iron, as long as electric rather than butane/etc portable gas powered type.

 

[Motorhogman]

^ If you think there are fumes, don't use a heat gun either if it has a brushed motor, though most people are pretty sensitive to the smell of gasoline and if they can't smell it, there's not enough fumes to worry about. Another option to heat it is use a soldering iron, as long as electric rather than butane/etc portable gas powered type.

I agree with using caution here with heat. Not smelling any fumes at all, even with the truck doors shut. True enough the biggest threat is a spark or open flame. I do have several soldering irons from my radiator shop days. That's a very good idea. Thanx again.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d just cut it off and couple it. You have a panel if there’s ever an issue, and fuel pressure is nil.

 

[Motorhogman]

I’d just cut it off and couple it. You have a panel if there’s ever an issue, and fuel pressure is nil.

That's most likely what I'll be doing if this doesn't come apart tomorrow. Thanx

 

[cober]

Only if you’re too cheap to support the site.

nice try mr. embarrassment

 

[Motorhogman]

OK.. I have cut the line right at the Coupler.

Now I need to make sense of the dimensions I'm seeing on these Dorman replacement couplers and lines.. They make no sense.

They say 3/8 steel to 5/16 nylon tubing. Mine is braided. Every one of them I've looked at on Youtube is braided.

I put a Vernier on the steel line and get .360 3/8 is .375.. Is that today's QC ? "close enough"

5/16 is .312

The braided line measures
OD .350 ID .190

There is no way a 5/16 barbed fitting is going into that .190 ID.

I don't think a 1/4 inch ( .250 ) would fit into that braided line..

Color me Baffled.. Any thoughts ??

Amazing a line that small delivers enough fuel to the engine..

 

[Mbrooks420]

Use a compression fitting. Typically piping is sold by the ID.