How to: - 2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
nice try mr. embarrassment
Funny, my comment got a bunch of likes, and yours will get none. I upload a picture in one step, takes 5 seconds. Easy peasy.
 



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OK.. I have cut the line right at the Coupler.

Now I need to make sense of the dimensions I'm seeing on these Dorman replacement couplers and lines.. They make no sense.

They say 3/8 steel to 5/16 nylon tubing. Mine is braided. Every one of them I've looked at on Youtube is braided.

I put a Vernier on the steel line and get .360 3/8 is .375.. Is that today's QC ? "close enough"

5/16 is .312

The braided line measures
OD .350 ID .190

There is no way a 5/16 barbed fitting is going into that .190 ID.

I don't think a 1/4 inch ( .250 ) would fit into that braided line..

Color me Baffled.. Any thoughts ??

Amazing a line that small delivers enough fuel to the engine..
You just concluded me. The steel tube is measure from the OD. And the nylon tubing is measured from the ID.
I used a barb adapter fitting into my flexible braided line.

rai
 






Just got back from town.. Hit 4 auto parts stores.. I may have the solution in hand. Going to try and make it work tomorrow. I'll post some pictures then.
 






I'd use a pick to pull out that metal clip inside the connector and buy a new clip or even a new connector
 






Having some success. Getting that barbed fitting into the braided line was a tight fit. Have 4 barbs in and a FI clamp around it. The other end was easy. little lube on the outlet tube and it slipped right on and clicked into locked position. Lesson learned.. Don't spend so much time trying to uncouple a "quick disconnect Ford fitting". Just cut it off ! lol Now all I have to do is get the compressor going, blow off the debris around the old sending unit and remove it. Figure the best length to cut off the new nylon tubing, heat the tubing up and put it together. Thanx to all who chimed in here. Appreciate it much.
IMG_20221217_121910277.jpg
IMG_20221217_121532260.jpg
 












OK last post for me on this project. Unless anyone has questions. Ran for over half an hour, no leaks. This pump is much quieter than the one that gave up.. Maybe that was the warning I ignored. Just have to get to tin knocking a of piece of sheet metal for the floor and put the rugs and seats back. Here's a couple of pictures of the line connections and installation. :chug::chug: Forgot to say, if anyone is wondering what the red is on the vapor line. It's to mark where the arrow on the sender unit was pointing.

IMG_20221217_133927318.jpg IMG_20221217_133755835.jpg
 






To me the following was perfect....nice pliable aluminum....and inexpensive and available at local Walmart, aluminum cooking sheet :
LINK OF SHEET
OVEN-PAN-_.jpeg
 






To me the following was perfect....nice pliable aluminum....and inexpensive and available at local Walmart, aluminum cooking sheet :
LINK OF SHEET
View attachment 437293
Thanx, I've got my own personal junk yard out in the woods. Started collecting stuff 16 years ago when I moved to SC. Lots of sheet metal. Even some painted white already from microwave cabinets. Yeah, I'll try to fix anything.. almost..
 






I am making this post because going into doing my fuel pump installation, I could not find a thread on how to successfully cut an access panel for the fuel pump in a 2 DOOR explorer.

So, I will try to keep this as short and simple as possible because I know whoever needs this thread as a template is probably tired of searching and just ready to get it done.

First off, check to make sure you are getting power back to the pump by unplugging the main plug, under the truck, in front of the rear axle, on the driver-side and checking to make sure you are getting 12 volts between the pink and black wires when you turn the key over (You need an assistant because this circuit will only go true for about 2 seconds As Soon As the key is turned to ACC - before cranking). If you are not getting the 12 volts, there could be a bad relay or fuse in the line; so check the inertia switch, pump relay and pump fuse (Refer to the other helpful threads on explorerforum.com). If you ARE getting the 12 volts required, your fuel pump is almost certainly shot..

-I found the "Fuel Pump Repair Kit" on ebay for about $35, including shipping (expedited, and I received it within three days); from what I can tell, it is still an Airtex pump (Advance Auto stocks Airtex) **Update: I am having a "stumbling issue at random times now and I am thinking this fuel pump is the problem, unfortunately. So, I would suggest buying one from the auto parts store or somewhere more reputable**

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Door 4x4 and I said "Screw it, I really don't feel like dropping the tank!" First off, yes you are somewhat close to the FUEL tank, but you are actually about 2-3 inches above the tank (about an inch from the fuel line in one spot). Soo, you just need a somewhat steady hand and an angle grinder.

1) Grab a 15mm socket and ratchet to take off the three nuts holding the driver side rear seat down.

View attachment 276953

2) Pull back the carpet to reveal a, seemingly useless, plastic support tray. This tray is held in by two phillips head screws and a 10mm bolt (you can squeeze the tray out without having to take off the passenger side seat).

View attachment 276954

3) Now you are ready to make measurements and make your cuts. In the picture, the measurements are linear - taken by holding the ruler straight/level (not contoured to the curves of the floorboard). The measurement from the side of the truck was taken from the wheel well cover and the measurement from the back of the truck was taken by slipping the ruler under the seat back until it stopped and then looking straight down at the ruler.

View attachment 276955
View attachment 276956

4) Then cover the bottom of the seat with something flame-retardant (I used some stuff called 'cool tape') to prevent a "flare-up". I also used that stupid tray thing with a wet shirt over it to protect the other seat. Then, put on your safety glasses and go to town on those cuts (watch out for sparks).

View attachment 276957

5) You should see the fuel pump now... I decided to quickly file the sharp edges down some so I could prevent any unexpected trips to the ER. Now, just unplug the two plugs for the pump, pop the clip off of the fuel line and take apart the line with a 3/8" tool (Look at second picture); for my truck, this little simple step sounds wayyyyy easier when reading, my line was all ten kinds of seized-up - I used wd-40, PB Blaster and lots of elbow grease. Then, just zip those bolts out with an 8mm socket and remove your fuel pump assembly.

View attachment 276958
View attachment 276959


6) Because I ordered just a Fuel pump, without the rest of the assembly, I had to take apart the old assembly to install the new pump. This only entails pulling the 8mm bolt that straps on the pump, loosening the hose clamps and unplugging the pump. Now, if you got the same kit as me, you will need to cut the two wires running to the pump with enough slack in them so that you may reconnect the new pump using butt connectors (be mindful of which wire is positive and negative - the pump will tell you, but I believe the 'tan' wire is positive and the black is negative), but make sure the wires are protected from each other so that they will not short together. Now, just replace the hose and clamps with the new ones. You may also use the strainer that came with it, even though it looks different; the strainer may rub the bottom of the tank, but you can still fit the assembly in and bolt it down no problem. The little rubber OEM cover will fit on the new pump but you will have to make a little square cut-out for it.

View attachment 276960

7) Just drop the assembly in and button everything up in reverse order. You will also need to find a piece of metal or something a little bigger than the size of the hole so that you can cover the access hole and screw it down to keep out noise, weather, and debris - I actually just used a piece of a ABS plastic mud flap, six self-tapping screws, and sealant. That is pretty much it! I would recommend changing the fuel filter but I guess it is not completely necessary.

View attachment 276961

Hope this could help!
An
After all of the help I have received through these forums, I wanted to pay a little back.
You the man thanks for sharing this is what I was looking for and you were straight to the point without all the bullshit I even love that more
 






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