5.0L swap "done" now time for an engine build... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5.0L swap "done" now time for an engine build...

Your thinking is correct!
The next step would be to watch live data and look at the 02 sensors switching and fuel trims
Maybe a clue in there

The codes “lack of switching” usually points to a lazy 02 sensor it is not responding as the pcm was expecting it to

Not sure how I'm going to check that unless I can make ForScan do it. I know I can use ForScan for extra gauges and some data logging, just not sure if I can make heads or tails of the data.

Make sure you have them plugged in correctly it is easy to switch the wires to the bank 1 side 02 sensors

Definitely plugged into the right location, it's the only one that can plug in there. Bank 2 sensor 1 is the one over by itself and the only one that connects in that side of the transmission.

Is a lean code for the other bank still pending? Another good thing to check

You clear the code how long before it comes back?

No, scanner showed 6 codes before reset. 3 set and the same three pending.

After reset the same codes came back on second drive which I think is about as quick as they can. At this time only two have returned. The third P0174 has not yet, but likely will if I keep driving.

  • P0155 02 Heater Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
  • P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean



stuff happens and it can happen during install especially. A couple of times I have seen something in the fuel rail plug the backside of an injector



Keep up the good work
It’s not going to be oil or spark
In my experience lean on one bank is usually injector related or a big air leak, but the air leak would be in the effected bank somewhere before the 02 sensor lol usually pretty easy to spot but don’t overlook the egr if the lean condition is on bank 1

The computer seems to be telling you there is a problem with the oxygen sensor(s) I would start there… check your work!

Sounds like this might be one time where pointing the parts cannon at an O2 sensor might might hit the right solution.
 



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It’s the 02 sensor look at the codes

Lack of switching, the pcm cannot knows what an 02 sensor is supposed to do and it is not doing it

The dsensors in the passenger side are the ones that people often mix up the wiring (my step son is color blind and he has mixed them up more then once when doing v8 conversions) lol lol
 






It’s the 02 sensor look at the codes

Lack of switching, the pcm cannot knows what an 02 sensor is supposed to do and it is not doing it

The dsensors in the passenger side are the ones that people often mix up the wiring (my step son is color blind and he has mixed them up more then once when doing v8 conversions) lol lol

Sounds like I'll be picking up an O2 sensor on my way home from work one day this week.
 






It’s the 02 sensor look at the codes
It appears that the problem was likely the O2 sensor. I picked up a new one on Tuesday, but it doesn't look like I'll be using it after all.

Climbed under the truck to change it out this afternoon, well it turns out the connector was loose. There were pushed together, but not fully seated and clicked together.

A few weeks back after taking the truck on its first jaunt up the interstate I fragged the CV joint in the front driveshaft. While fixing that I also did some other stuff and broke a vacuum line. I drove the truck around the block to make sure the driveshaft was seated in the cup and retighten the bolts, and during that drive the CEL came on with the lean codes.

I assumed the leak caused it. Looks like I was wrong. Dad got a wild hair and did the CV joint change while I was at work. Looks like he might have disconnected the plug and didn't reseat it filly, or it was already wasn't seated good and he jarred it loose.

I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see if the fix holds, if so I'll go get that $70 back. Hurt my feelings, I was looking for a good excuse to stop in again this week anyway. Cute parts counter girl working there and I can't tell if she's interested or just being nice. Being perpetually single I'm kind of hopeful for the former, but been single so long (forever) that I wouldn't know what to do if I found out that she was.

Anyhow, wasn't looking for relationship advice, just updating that I hopefully found and fixed that problem.
 






Anyhow, wasn't looking for relationship advice
Spend 2 weeks in the Philippines, you'd find your dream girl, or she would find you. Beyond that, anything you ever wanted to do can be attained there. I wanted to fly a plane for example, I had a great experience. I don't have a motorcycle endorsement on my license but I thought it would be cool to try that too. $10 later I was riding a honda for a few days. I met a guy there from Portland that does scuba diving, so that will be the next trip.
 






Show her your truck!

My wife said “oh that’s aggressive
Looking” when I took her out for our first date in my old 96 explorer.
Now we have been married 16+ years

When she found out I drove a “bronco 2 and and explorer” she was a little worried… until she saw them and we went wheeling
hahahaha

Before buying parts I always do a visual inspection because parts are expensive
$70 for an 02 sensor!!!! You can use a universal 4 wire bosch and add your own connector… the only difference between a $30 02 sensor and a $75 one is the length of the connector and the proprietary connector for that 02 sensor position
 






Show her your truck!

My wife said “oh that’s aggressive
Looking” when I took her out for our first date in my old 96 explorer.
Now we have been married 16+ years

When she found out I drove a “bronco 2 and and explorer” she was a little worried… until she saw them and we went wheeling
hahahaha

Before buying parts I always do a visual inspection because parts are expensive
$70 for an 02 sensor!!!! You can use a universal 4 wire bosch and add your own connector… the only difference between a $30 02 sensor and a $75 one is the length of the connector and the proprietary connector for that 02 sensor position

She's seen it. When I drove it and another employee found out it was swapped, he wanted to see it. She checked it out as well. When she heard it was AWD and I was planning to lower it, she wanted to know if I was planning to drag race it. Seemed a little disappointed by the no.

Probably doesn't realize it's the same truck, but when I was buying the O2 sensor for it on Tuesday, she asked if I wanted to sell it.

Well $65 with tax. There was a cheaper one available, but I opted for Bosch. A quick, glance under there visual inspection. Would not have caught that one. The plug was all but fully inserted. I imagine that it was close enough to actually make contact at times.
 






She's seen it. When I drove it and another employee found out it was swapped, he wanted to see it. She checked it out as well. When she heard it was AWD and I was planning to lower it, she wanted to know if I was planning to drag race it. Seemed a little disappointed by the no.

Probably doesn't realize it's the same truck, but when I was buying the O2 sensor for it on Tuesday, she asked if I wanted to sell it.

Well $65 with tax. There was a cheaper one available, but I opted for Bosch. A quick, glance under there visual inspection. Would not have caught that one. The plug was all but fully inserted. I imagine that it was close enough to actually make contact at times.
We're all a little disappointed it won't be drag raced. It would make a great grocery getter. The V8 will help get the ice cream home before it melts.
 






We're all a little disappointed it won't be drag raced. It would make a great grocery getter. The V8 will help get the ice cream home before it melts.
I like twisty roads more than straight lines. To me drag racing is simply an effective means of breaking your ride and emptying your wallet.

I can't say that I wouldn't enjoy it if I tried it, it just takes entirely too much money to have any chance at being effective competitive.
 






Oil pressure as indicated wouldn't concern me. Standard volume oil pump in a SBF is all that's needed, even for performance applications.
 






I like twisty roads more than straight lines. To me drag racing is simply an effective means of breaking your ride and emptying your wallet.

I can't say that I wouldn't enjoy it if I tried it, it just takes entirely too much money to have any chance at being effective.
It doesn't matter how fast it goes, you built it the way you want it.
 






Oil pressure as indicated wouldn't concern me. Standard volume oil pump in a SBF is all that's needed, even for performance applications.

I'm not going to not drive it because of the low oil pressure, hell I'll even put my foot in it and drive it hard like that. I just don't trust it for getting away from the local area. Within about 60 mile I can relatively easily get my other truck and trailer to drag it back home if necessary. Helps that the only places I semi regularly go that far I also have a safe place to leave the truck for a few days if necessary. Get much further and it becomes too much hassle to take the risk.

**** happens. I might install a new engine and it still break on my road trip. Any vehicle is likely to break anywhere at any time. Vehicle breaking out of the blue is one thing, knowingly driving a vehicle that is injured on a trip like that is something else. Just not comfortable with doing it.

Shouldn't have to be concerned about it too much longer. If all goes well I intend to start tearing apart the spare engine this weekend. If I get started like I want, I should have it ready for the machine shop by Monday. Then it'll be a question of whats required and how long they'll take to do it. I've also got to be thinking about how far I'm going to go with it. I'm not looking for a lot right now, but I do want more than a stock Explorer.

Plan is a "stock" bottom end if I can get away with it, but if much machining is needed to block and crank that might change. I'm entirely unsure about the camshaft. Don't know enough to even start making that decision. I know it depends on use, but I have no idea what is needed for my intended use.

Also not sure about the intake and heads. I definitely want to stay with the stock intake for the appearance, but I don;t know if it's going to become a major restriction. I don't want to drop money on aftermarket heads at this time and would like to stay GT-40 iron for stock appearance. How much is that going to limit me? I'm not chasing horsepower numbers or E.T.s, just a fund driver, but I have no idea what power levels are going to get it there for me.

Got to decide if I'm going to stick with the GT-40s and do a DIY porting job, pay someone to port them, or drop $2000 on a set of aluiminum heads. I know people argue for the "budget aluminum" heads over the GT-40s, especially when talking about professional porting. A set of ported GT-40s would run around $1200. A set of budget aluminum could be had for about the same. The budget aluminuym I'd still ahve to buy another $5-600 worth of rockers and pushrods to go with. The GT-40s would use the rockers I've already got and likely the same length pushrods as well.

It doesn't matter how fast it goes, you built it the way you want it.

Well in the process at least. Got the drivetrain swap "done". Still got to figure out the engine build. After I get the spare engine torn down, I need to dive into the J-mod to try to improve the shifting. After that it's on to suspension and axles to get it sitting and geared right.
 






Top end has been decided on. Might have been a mistake, but I'm getting a cam and am sticking stock heads and intake... sorta.

I really wanted to keep an engine bay that looks like ford would have done it (except the headers). Easy way to achieve that is using what Ford did, the explorer 5.0L engine. I didn't really want to swap to a aftermarket aluminum heads or intake. Could have probably hidden the heads with some paint, but they'd still be breathing through a stock intake. I really don;t think I'd ever push the power levels to really take advantage of performance heads anyway. Seems to me that people made good power with the stock explorer heads and intake back in the day.

So I've got a set of ported GT-40P heads, Explorer Intake manifold, ported EGR elbow, ported throttlebody on order. Also went with the porter's recommended "stage 2 truck cam" no specifications on the cam, I wouldn't have understood them if provided, but it's allegedly good from idel to about 5800. All in for about what a just nice pair of aluminum heads and matching rockers would have cost.

Mistake? Possibly Leaving power on the table? Probably. I'm sure I'll like it better than what I had though.

Hopefully I'll have results from machine shop in the next few weeks and these top end parts arriving around the same time.
 






Sounds like a good plan to me!
 






Nothing wrong with basing the build around the GT40P heads. There's not much port work to be done on them since there's not much material available for it and the heads are very well optimized from the factory. A freshening up, cleaning up the bowls and castings would really be all that's necessary IMHO. You might be able to use some pedestal mount roller rockers which would be a decent upgrade for the valvetrain - I think Crane Cams use to make a set of their diecast Energizer series roller rockers and I ran those for many years before selling them to another individual.

You could send the lower intake out to TMoss for porting which would land you some solid gains on the induction and may better support the upgraded camshaft you're planning. As for exhaust, the engine is far more sensitive to intake restriction than it is exhaust, but upgrading to headers will certainly free up some power.

When I recently built a new engine for my Mountaineer, I used an old set of World Products cast iron heads - I did this intentionally to avoid dissimilar metallurgy on the interface between the heads and the block because I tend to use the vehicle for long distance trips occasionally into remote locations. Also, I had the heads on hand and they were fully ported. I am not disappointed in the performance at all and I could care less about weight savings in a vehicle that already exceeds 4000 lbs.
 






Nothing wrong with basing the build around the GT40P heads. There's not much port work to be done on them since there's not much material available for it and the heads are very well optimized from the factory. A freshening up, cleaning up the bowls and castings would really be all that's necessary IMHO. You might be able to use some pedestal mount roller rockers which would be a decent upgrade for the valvetrain - I think Crane Cams use to make a set of their diecast Energizer series roller rockers and I ran those for many years before selling them to another individual.

You could send the lower intake out to TMoss for porting which would land you some solid gains on the induction and may better support the upgraded camshaft you're planning. As for exhaust, the engine is far more sensitive to intake restriction than it is exhaust, but upgrading to headers will certainly free up some power.

When I recently built a new engine for my Mountaineer, I used an old set of World Products cast iron heads - I did this intentionally to avoid dissimilar metallurgy on the interface between the heads and the block because I tend to use the vehicle for long distance trips occasionally into remote locations. Also, I had the heads on hand and they were fully ported. I am not disappointed in the performance at all and I could care less about weight savings in a vehicle that already exceeds 4000 lbs.

I'm guessing that it would have cost around $500 to have the heads reworked by a local machine shop. I didn't actually ask, but that's the number I'm assigning to it. Another $200 for upgraded springs. These heads come with all of that already done, so the way I see it is I have about $300 into the porting work that they do. I considered attempting a DIY clean and port, but it was worth it to me to pay someone else to do the work. I'd have more dollars invested in the time to do it and wouldn't have gotten as good of results.

For the rockers, I'll be using stock rockers for now. I'd like rollers, but honestly not a lot to be gained for my use case. I've got a set of cheap procomp (IIRC) 1.7 roller rockers installed in the current engine with the explorer cam. Since I'm cam swapping I don't think I want to run the 1.7s and I'm not going to install those cheap rockers in this new engine. If I don't find something used in my price range before building, they will be easy enough to change down the road. Maybe if I can get a 1.6/1.7 set? 1.6 for intake and 1.7 for exhaust to get more out of the smaller valves in these heads. I'd need to do some more research on that idea, and should probably see how it runs with the cam first.

TMOSS... I thought about that. Biggest reason I didn't go that route is how he works. It's a turn-around service, you send your manifold in for porting. Also difficult to find information on how to contact him. It's out there but hard to find. Also he doesn't do the heads. Not discounting TMOSS's work, I decided to go another direction. I ended up going with a competitor that sells outright, does heads, and is easy to contact through Facebook. I ordered ported upper & lower intake and EGR elbow to go with the heads and cam. When done I'll probably post a set of heads and intake for sale somewhere and recouperate some of the cost.

Already got a set of OBX headers installed. They fit fine, but after I finish getting this engine together and recouperate some of the bank account, I'll probably order a set of TMs for future use. I wasn't willing to spend that much and deal with the BS (wait time, lack of contact, etc) before, and wasn't going to do the engine swap with stock manifolds. Now that I don't "need" them and people are actually recieving them, I'm slightly more willing to deal with the BS.

Rest of my exhaust is kind of cobbled together at the moment. Got the Explorer stock down pipes back through the second O2 sensors. From there it's dual 2.5" into single Magnaflow muffler with single exit, not sure on exit size. I wanted to do dual in/out muffler and run duals to the rear, but since I was planning to lower the truck the shop was against it. I'd have taken it elsewhere, but at the time I needed an exhaust on the truck pronto. Looking at the truck now I'm not happy with the fitment of the down pipes and primary cats. I'm going to get the initial round of lowering done soon, then take it to a different shop to get a full exhaust run. Probably 2.5" all the way back with highflow cats and a crossover. Muffler selection is probably going to hurt flow a bit though, I really like the sound of the generic turbo mufflers over most anything else.

Dissimilar metals are part of the reason I wanted to go with iron as well, probably for the similar reasons. In my line of work galvanic corrosion is a big problem, but I'm not too worried about that. Different rates of thermal expansion is where my concern lies. Aluminum heads on an iron block is theoretically more prone to head gasket issues. My main plans for the truck is fun street driving so it would probably never be an issue, but the truck may be worked kind of heavy on ocassion, it is a truck afterall. I wanted the added percieved reliability of iron heads on an iron block. Like you I wasn't concerned about the weight savings, the few extra lbs aren't going to be an issue in this application.
 






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