CODE 522, trans only drives wheels forward

[rsmith]

Hello all,
4r55e trans, 4405 transfer case;
I have what I think are the correct resistances at the PCM point-of-connection from (newTRS) terminals 199 to 359. What else could give me a code 522? My measured resistances are; Pk= 4,210 ohms, Rev=1,435 ohms, Neut=728 ohms, Dr= 399 ohms, 2nd= 210 ohms, and 1st = 87 ohms of resistance.
At the 16 pin term block on the side of the trans, I have the following resistances;
Coast, SS1, SS2, and SS3 solenoids= 30 ohms, TCC solenoid= 12 ohms, and EPC solenoid= 5 ohms of resistance.
Does TRS term # 463 route through the transfer case shift motor, before "reporting to" the PCM?
Symptoms;
1. Trans drives "forward" regardless of which position / gear the selector is in. Its' as if it were in a limp home mode. Do I have a bad PCM?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! According to # 17 in my list of useful threads, it says: 522
Vehicle Not In Park Or Neutral During KOEO.

 

[rsmith]

BrooklynBay,
Thanks for your post. I'm familiar w/ what the code meant. That's what sent me investigating. The TRS isn't bad, nor mis-adjusted, and the shift selector (at the column, as well as the TRS) is in Park when code 522 sets.

 

[ssmith]

Hi, cool name, welcome

 

[Turdle]

Welcome to the forum!

 

[rsmith]

Hi all,
Well, since my last post I've found the code 522 (not in Pk or Neut.) to be due to a less than fully seated connector at the transfer case.
However, that didn't help the "Wants to drive forward in Pk., Rev., Neut." problem. Looking at posts in a nearby forum, I found where several guys have had the same problem, and they are of the opinion that is due to a frozen forward clutch pack. The only real solution; "Surgery". I'll let you know what I find.

 

[rsmith]

Hi everyone;
As I mentioned in my last post, I thought it was major surgery time. W/ that in mind, I pulled the pan first, and found that the manual valve inner lever pin (part of 7A115) had become bent & was not sliding the manual valve (the manual valve was stuck in the "low" position). I don't know how it came to be bent, but it broke off when I tried to just bend it back, and it wouldn't weld w/ carbon steel wire w/ my MIG. So, I machined a new beefier pin out of a valve stem, welded it on, reassembled, and the problem is now gone! To reiterate, if you have the symptoms listed below, it may be that your manual valve isn't being slid in it's bore to the correct positions because of a bent / broken pin;

• Engine loads in park.
• Wheels drive "forward" while selector is in reverse.
• Wheels drive forward while selector is in neutral.
  
  I have before & after pictures for anyone who is interested, but I'm not sure how to post them.