need photos of roof cages, baskets please | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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need photos of roof cages, baskets please

well so far i have cut, and welded up two squares for the top and bottom 40.5 X 57 kinda it really depends on how and where you measure it,

i am going to pick up my lights tomorrow so i can fig out how tall it need to be

and on a side i after i set the back of my shirt on fire, i made a ready bad ass razor mouse trap and it works

And should I prime it be for I paint it????
 



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I've always had much better results with priming first. Personally I would give it 4 light coats of primer. 3 light and 1 heavy coat of paint, and then at least a couple more of clear coat (just clear spray paint). And then if you don't want to have to refinish it every year I'd get it powder-coated. At least that's what it would take here in the salty upper midwest :(

That's why I'm such a big fan of only using galvanized steel to begin with :D
 






1st i for got about this jasonb, you were right 14 gau it too think but what are you going to do?

well fix my old switch plate and made a new switch plate for the high power lights. all i need now is to find a fuse block and to finsh the rack up :D

ps as you look to the pic below you will find out why i need so many switches, BTW plus the 6 extra i have on the EX now this will bring me up to 14 extra lights, 8 are 100w and 6 are 55w, project over kill lol. :D :D :D
 

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So how many more alternators are you going to be installing? :D
 






yosh18981898 said:
So how many more alternators are you going to be installing? :D
I count 1,130 watts of lighting so that will be about
1,130watts/13.5volts = 83.7Amps. Obviously a bit much for a stock alternator (90-95 amps?) to handle if all are on at the same time.
 






yosh18981898 said:
So how many more alternators are you going to be installing? :D

you forgot about the amp and sub :D

but anyway the lights are facing front, back, and both sides. So i will not be useing them all at the same time, the most i will need at any one time will be 600w + factory.

BTW what will happen, will i burn up my alt?

ethanks charlie
 






I think the "reserve" capacity on the stock alt is like 40 amps. Which is about 550 watts. You can get a stock 130 amp alt out of a newer explorer that will bolt up to your engine (or so I've heard numerous times) and then have an 80 amp reserve or 1100 watts to play with.
 






Update,

i did buy too thick, and too big of tubing. But what are you going to do?

anyway with 3 rows of support bars that match the side bars that are not in the photo, she weighs in at 48lbs, so far:D
 

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Looks awesome so far man. How have you decided to mount it to the roof?
 






Slybarger said:
Looks awesome so far man. How have you decided to mount it to the roof?

ya, i got some 1" flat stock, and 3' of threaded bolt 3/4".

i will cut the flat stock about 3" long and weld 2 of the bolts 1.5" long to it. These will slide into the stock rails (with some help). Then drill the holes in the frame i cranken down,

I will put 1 in each corner, and i will need 1/4" to 1/2" spaciers so it does not rub the roof,

note: it would have been nice to know that the roof it shaped like an egg before i started :p
 






Yeah it took a while to get the legs on mine right. It about drove me bonkers. :confused: Tweak a little here a little there, I finally ended up gettting the legs close, and doing the attachment welding, with the rack on the truck.
 






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;) Here is a 3/4 square tubing cage that i fabricated on my choped top 84 bronco11 with Hella lights. I used expanded metal for the bottom with 3 inch flat metal on top of 3/4 sq. tubing to support it. I ilnstalled quick disconnects on the wiring near the rack so I can take the rack and lights off as one unit. Work in progress. 5.0, AOD trans. 8.8 rear with 4 rancho 5000 shocks, dana 35 front axel out of a 91 Exp.will soon have dual shock mounts on front and roll cage after I get my tubing bender. workable 98 ranger tailgate,custom made aluminum dash and autometer gauges, 3 inch lift with reworked Exp. springs.
 






rookie, your rack looks nice strong,

lol nice rack lol

sorry about that, but you brought up two good points i am going to use plywood as a floor, and use a trailer flat 4 pin harness for a quick connection
 






update, the paint is drying I will flip it over paint the top and mount it in the morning, Yes I will take pics.

The 4 main lights are there but not wired nor in the CB, and I did not ground it (the rack) and the antenna mount needs to be welded, then I need to put and wire the other four lights.

But is feels so so so freaking good to drag it out of the garage for the last time, four months later

$80 tube steel
$3 flat steel
$3 threaded rod
$2 bolts
$9 paint
$15 welding wire
$40 fuse block
$10 2 gauge wire
$10 for reg wire
$70 for lights
===========
$242 :eek: :eek:

20-25 man hours in four months gone.

i should have bought a roof rack :D
 






I,m pretty happy with the yakima rack. Not to much noise and is strong.
 

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Yeah but the benifits of building it yourself, exactly the way you want, outway the drawbacks. Finish it up and post some pics. I can't wait.
 






i will get pics before work, then post after work 11pm-ish EST.

i have to move another car to get front shots.

I am just happy i can get in the garage again, BTW i stood on the center when it was on saw horses and it took 290lbs ez
 






ok i am lazy here we go
 

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Looks good! :thumbsup:
 



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and the last few, note I plan on putting a middle rail on both sides and the rear to making look better, mount 4 more lights, wire them all using trailer flat 4 prong for a quick connection, mount CB antenna, and plywood base, and repainting some welds :D



ps it looks better in person these are bad photos
 

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