sn0border88's SAS Thread | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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sn0border88's SAS Thread

WARNING: This swap will be longer than bmxking's :eek:

Thanks to tig for a real steal that I couldnt pass up ($50), it all started with a d44 from a 73' Bronco. This means its drum braked, coil sprung with LP housing complete hub to hub with r/a's.

But, its matching width. :D

Its in great shape as far as EB axles are concerned. It has 3.50's which upon inspection are in PERFECT condition. Not one chip on any of the ring gear teeth. Also the rust isnt too bad, its simply surface rust, nothing damaging. Also most of the bolts so far are coming off very well, only breaking a few. Not bad for 31 years of rust.

So far in the plans are yukon 4.88's with full spool or lincon locker. Disk brake conversion VIA junkyard or broncograveyard, rear XJ 8" lift leafs and heimjointed crossover. To complete the swap ill be getting new cromo shafts front and rear with a new 5on5.5 bolt pattern for the 8.8 and 4.88's with a detriot. Also rounding it out are some new rubbers, either 35" boggers or MT/R's on 5on5.5 steelies/beadlocked pending on the DD status upon completion of the project. And, if it is no longer a DD when I finish, the top is coming off. :eek: :thumbsup:


EDIT with final prices

Upon completion it now had a Fullwidth d44/9" with 36" TSL-SX, 5.13 gears spooled rear and many other goodies.


Prices:
Gears D44/9" 5.13: $150 from PBB
D44 Master Install: $109.99 from PORC on pirate
9" Master Install: $89.99 from PORC on pirate
D44 Carrier: $60 Ebay
9" Spool: $129.99 from PORC on pirate
1976 f-150 Highpinion Drum Brake D44 : $85 from Junkyard
D44 Disk Brake Outers: $50 from Junkyard
1978 F-150 9": $50 from Junkyard
5 on 5.5 Rims: $20 from Junkyard
4 36x12.5x15 TSL-SX: $ 250 from Pragon Board
1 36x12.5x15 TSL Radial: $18 from Junkyard
Shocks: $100 from Jeff Daniels Jeeps
D44 Spring Perch: $20 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
U-Bolts (Custom) : $30 from local u-bolt shop
Brake Pads/Caliper: $31.77 National Auto
Leaf Spring Hardware: $48 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
Replacement A4LD: $65 Junkyard
Conversion U-Joint: $25 National Auto
Extend Brakelines: $73 from local brakeline shop
Steel: $56

Without what I paid those who helped, plus the gear installs I have about 1,500 into this.


Scrapping the TTB: PRICELESS
 

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those waggy leafs stock, 4" lift, 6" lift, what?
 



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Most run stock Waggy leaves, but I think I've seen someone run 2.5".
 






Mine are custom alcans based on the stock waggy leafs with 8 3/8" rise. I have about ~5-6" of lift over stock.
 






if i ever get my truck done it will have rancho 44044 waggy lift springs. they are 2 inch i believe. but i might have to take a leaf out of them.
 






redranger4.0 said:
if i ever get my truck done it will have rancho 44044 waggy lift springs. they are 2 inch i believe. but i might have to take a leaf out of them.
lmao, which will be never!
 






Updates for everyone. Housing is almost cleaned up and ready for paint. Still debating over por-15 or bedliner for painting the housing. Also did some searching today at work and scored 7-leaf waggy springs for free :p Those are hopefully getting blasted on saturday along with everything else. Trying to find hi-steer knuckles for steering, going OTT heimed crossover with cromo tubing that we have at the shop. AS far as getting it done, im hoping to order in my new gears (yukon 4.88's) for the rear and tires (35" mt/r's or x-terrains) within a month. Once they are in and the axle has steering completed im gonna get working on it. It will just be the housing till i can get in the gears for it, but they should come soon. Definatly before crozet.
 

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few more, check back on first post for updated list of prices and estimates.
 

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Lookin' good!!!! My SAS was never that clean! I Pm'ed you about some flat top knuckles, LMK if you're interested, thanks.
 






wow that is one shinny axle.....looking good so far.
 






.....ooooooo, shiny metal object...i can't seem to look away......:D
 






linds, if you say anymore about shiny metal things im gonna start callin you parrot. it is a lil shiny i guess :rolleyes: I got a lil carried away with a fine grit flap wheel. Its still going to get painted over, unless I want to roll on dubs and crome plate the axle... Hmmmmm.... :D Zainy, thanks for the offer, im gonna look into that.
 






Spas said:
.....ooooooo, shiny metal object...i can't seem to look away......:D

Fish are attracted to shiny metal things. Saltwater fish like tuna, striped bass, etc go crazy after one. :D
 






so your saying at the next run I should tie my axle to a wire and run it past fishy's tent?
 






You should start looking into getting bushings pressed into those waggy leaves. I always went to interstate springs in chester.
 






im ordering the bushings tommorow, we will prolly do em at the shop, if not Ill check that out.
 






You can do them as long as the shop as a pretty hefty press. I know interstate uses a 100 ton press but they also do some pretty BIG things
 






Ive pressed in spring bushings on a 20 ton press. Tried pressing them in with a jack under an 80 horse JD tractor, the picked the tractor up and didnt go in. :eek:
 






i could try that under our JD 7400 series... but I dont have a jack big enough.
 






reading around, doing my research on hysteer crossover ive found that billvista on pirate rules. He has a series of writeups on steering for d44's and ive came across a few things. He mentions on this page http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/steeringresearch.htm using a machined flat EB knuckle for hy-steer. Anyone see or have this done before? It would be nice caus I have some lying around Im trying to find more on it but Im coming up short. Any help would be great. Other than that im just gonna go down to the u-pull it and grab some 70's gm flattops. Apperantly the drivers side is all ready for an arm, the pass side needs to be machined flat and tapped first.
 



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Ive never liked the machined hi-steer EB knuckles, because you are left with so little surface area for the arm, and there is very little meat left in that area of the knuckle once machined that far. This is why very few people take this route with EB knuckles. Its kinda like running 37's on a built D30- its doable, but its also at the outer limits of reliability.

Honestly if it were mine, id just go with the GM flattops. You still run the same spindle/brake swap stuff as you would with the drum EB knuckles. Actually, if it were mine, i wouldnt bother with a high steer arm anyway. The steering arms on the drum EB knuckles are up alot higher than most other stock arms. You can do a standard tie rod flip and the steering will be high up out of harms way.

Edit- Nevermind, i just remembered you're doing leafs. You may indeed have to go with a high steer arm. Sorry, cant think straight @ 5:30 in teh morning. :p
 






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