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Broken Steering Column Shift Tube

CorbinDallas

Active Member
Joined
April 3, 2013
Messages
87
Reaction score
9
City, State
Calgary
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 5.0 EB/2005 Aviator
Found a few threads with people having loose bolts, but couldn't find any good posts solving a broken shifter. Found an awesome video below to drop the whole steering column and re/re the shift tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMd6jBLfta0

The video has already removed both the plastic and metal panels below the steering wheel, as well as having removed some electrical brackets. I didn't have to remove the brackets to get at the steering column mounting bolts, but it made it much harder to get at them.

Tools:

13mm deep socket (column mounting bolts)
8mm socket (metal panel below steering wheel mounting bolts)
13mm open ended wrench (column mounting bolt behind wiring)
philips screwdriver (plastic panel and steering wheel shroud)
T30 Torx bit (shift tube mounting screws)
 



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I had to replace one on our Aerostar, outside in the winter and mostly after dark. The worst part was taking so many parts of the dash apart to get to it. Sounds like it's easier to get to in an Explorer. It really isn't as bad a job as it seems like it would be.
 






The three main required parts are still available, and on eBay they are asking more than the new Ford prices. Do not pay $60-70 etc, the parts should run about $45 or so, plus shipping and taxes. I priced them about a week ago, Amazon was also a hair higher, but with free shipping for Prime members.

I have not watched that video, but I did replace the parts in my 99 about seven years ago. Unless more parts are damaged, what's needed is the main shifting rod and housing pieces, plus two bushings.
 






I've got loads of steering columns, I'm in Saskatchewan, inbox me and we'll talk

Si
 






It was about 3 years ago when I replaced the tube on the Aerostar, and I bought everything as 1 part # at O'Reilly's for about $25.
 






I changed the bushings on mine and the other two torx screws on the back are tight. The shifter feels better now but still has some play. I’m guessing the shift tube is worn out.
 






There are more then just the two torx bolts at the back there are a couple of brackets that hold the tube in place and the brake shift interlock solenoid… did you check all of these fasteners?
 






There are more then just the two torx bolts at the back there are a couple of brackets that hold the tube in place and the brake shift interlock solenoid… did you check all of these fasteners?

I changed the bushings so the two tube brackets are good. I don’t see any play in the steering column assembly when I move the shifter. The play seems to be right at the base of the shifter and I can hear a clicking sound there. I’ll have to pull the boot to see if something is loose or broken.
 






Well I found the issue. The point where the shift lever enters the tube is worn out on one side, causing play in the shift lever. I can also push the pin that secures the lever out by hand which isn’t good.

IMG_4997.jpeg
 






There’s the mountain of metal shavings. Looks like I’ll be replacing the shift tube this summer.

IMG_4998.jpeg
 






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