had to pull 1 head for a repair, do both head gaskets?

[2002GreyHD150]

ok... I have been slowly replacing the engine in the wife's Monty. I got a great deal on a 65,000 mile engine. I knew going in both exhaust manifolds were leaking.

In the process of removing the manifolds, I broke 6 studs. I got 5 of 6 out myself. 6th one, fought to the point a broke titanium drill bit in the whole with the stud remnants. So off came the head and off went the head to my trusty machinist friend.

Head is back. here is the question:

the engine had never been opened up. I now have the entire top end + 1/2 the driver's side down to the short block.

I know head gasket, front timing cover seals, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets and new head bolts....Should I go ahead and do BOTH cylinder head gaskets since I am this far? Its literally $100+ (gasket $50, bolts $50) more for the additional side.

do I have a legit concern to go ahead and do the other side or just leave it be?

I'm only looking at an extra 1-1.5hours of my own time doing the additional side, so in the grand scheme the time is irrelevant.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Rob

 

[ademily87]

Do it to be safe!! I would. You might be kicking yourself in the shorts down the road.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

It wouldn't hurt but I don't see it hurting by NOT doing it.

If you're worried and it's not gonna settle be too much extra effort, go for it. Especially if you're that far down.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

thanks... i'm just at that point... setting the timing chains etc is no biggie... $125 when I am in almost $2,000 now... whateva... lol...

anyone else?

Rob

 

[scdix50]

Do the other head while your there. It will make sure everything is even. Like head gaskets, valve seals, all your bolts will be new. I have found it easer to put back together when everything is cleaned up well. I prefer the best Fel-Pro head gaskets. I have never had to redo a head after having used them.

 

[limited05]

Do the other head while your there. It will make sure everything is even. Like head gaskets, valve seals, all your bolts will be new. I have found it easer to put back together when everything is cleaned up well. I prefer the best Fel-Pro head gaskets. I have never had to redo a head after having used them.

i agree , nothing is worse than doing the same job twice

 

[wood1]

Probably a waste of time but you just never know...

 

[2002GreyHD150]

well I just left O'reilly and my wallet is $200 lighter.. and was at Ford Dealer yesterday for an initial $109 wallet lightening as well... but I figured I would just go ahead and re-gasket the entire thing from oil pan to throttle body and everything in between.

I REALLY don't want to have to pull this SOB again... I've never in my 25 years turning wrenches have I had 1 freakin' engine fight me this much coming out... Not to mention reverse/re-engineering some of the fuzzy logic Ford through in the 4.6L AWD trucks... good God... stupid... like the reverse/hidden bolts of the radiator on the rad/condensor/trans cooler mount... gotta almost vent the a/c to get to the rad bolts? stupid...

anyway... later tomorrow... put it all back together, time it, then be ready to put her in Monday evening after work...

Rob

 

[boominXplorer]

Not to mention reverse/re-engineering some of the fuzzy logic Ford through in the 4.6L AWD trucks... good God... stupid... like the reverse/hidden bolts of the radiator on the rad/condensor/trans cooler mount... gotta almost vent the a/c to get to the rad bolts? stupid...

Yeah the first 3rd gen I worked on I wanted to shoot someone over the radiator/trans cooler/condenser set-up. Luckily I figured out the 2nd time I could get the motor out with the radiator still installed. Not sure about a V8 though

 

[2002GreyHD150]

its REALLY stupid. there ae what they call "u-clips" or "u-nuts" on the radiator mounting flange... all it takes is flipping the u-nut 180* so the bolt thread through the support from the engine=forward... problem solved... so freaking simple... but they had to make it hard for some dumb azz reason...

Just like on the a/c compressor and the P/s pump... redundant brackets on the p/s and a main bolt held captive by the main high-pressure side line... have to remove the pulley, drain the p/s system to get to a BOLT which should have been a stud like the other 3 attaching points... stupid....

A/c you literally have to walk it off the studs 1/4 turn at a time since its so tight to the frame rail... obviously the engines are full assembles, accessories and all then placed in the truck and hooked up... no regard for service logic.

rob

 

[jayton]

its REALLY stupid. there ae what they call "u-clips" or "u-nuts" on the radiator mounting flange... all it takes is flipping the u-nut 180* so the bolt thread through the support from the engine=forward... problem solved... so freaking simple... but they had to make it hard for some dumb azz reason...

Just like on the a/c compressor and the P/s pump... redundant brackets on the p/s and a main bolt held captive by the main high-pressure side line... have to remove the pulley, drain the p/s system to get to a BOLT which should have been a stud like the other 3 attaching points... stupid....

A/c you literally have to walk it off the studs 1/4 turn at a time since its so tight to the frame rail... obviously the engines are full assembles, accessories and all then placed in the truck and hooked up... no regard for service logic.

rob

Nothing is going to be easy on this one! I missed your post over here, as I have been watching the Modified forum lately.

BTW, The high pressure line to the p/s pump does not have to removed to back that bolt out.