Driver's Side Wheel Locked - 4WD Stuck on

[V8BoatBuilder]

Ok, there is a slim slim chance your driveshaft is the problem. Try turning the flange/socket on the t-case with the truck off. If it is still stuck, we can say with 100% certainty that your case is the issue.

The caps on the can was just to let you know that it's an OK temp solution.

As for a new case, a junkyard would be my 1st choice. You could get a direct replacement, or swap to a manual case. The former is the easiest to do, can be done in a day if you don't mind lifting the truck up.

T-case removal is not hard, and that case is not too heavy. Basically it runs as follows:

1) Remove both driveshafts, wiring harness and vent hose. Drain the case.
2) Remove 5 bolts that hold the case to the transmission. You might need to remove the center console and go through the plate in the floor to get to a few of them.
3) Remove case, it slides back off the transmission shaft with some good persuation.
4) Clean up the transmission flange, and new t-case mating surface.
5) Apply a good bead of RTV.
6) Stab new t-case is place on transmission shaft.
7) Insert and torque 5 bolts.
8) Reinstall driveshafts, wiring, vents
9) Fill with fluid.

Try www.car-part.com for a new case. All you need is the case, you can re-use your shift motor. I'd expect to pay around $200. Although you might get a freebie motor...

 

[MustangAndy]

Ok, there is a slim slim chance your driveshaft is the problem. Try turning the flange/socket on the t-case with the truck off. If it is still stuck, we can say with 100% certainty that your case is the issue.

The caps on the can was just to let you know that it's an OK temp solution.

As for a new case, a junkyard would be my 1st choice. You could get a direct replacement, or swap to a manual case. The former is the easiest to do, can be done in a day if you don't mind lifting the truck up.

T-case removal is not hard, and that case is not too heavy. Basically it runs as follows:

1) Remove both driveshafts, wiring harness and vent hose. Drain the case.
2) Remove 5 bolts that hold the case to the transmission. You might need to remove the center console and go through the plate in the floor to get to a few of them.
3) Remove case, it slides back off the transmission shaft with some good persuation.
4) Clean up the transmission flange, and new t-case mating surface.
5) Apply a good bead of RTV.
6) Stab new t-case is place on transmission shaft.
7) Insert and torque 5 bolts.
8) Reinstall driveshafts, wiring, vents
9) Fill with fluid.

Try www.car-part.com for a new case. All you need is the case, you can re-use your shift motor. I'd expect to pay around $200. Although you might get a freebie motor...

Alright, Thanks for the the help Aaron. I will try the flange tommorrow if it isn't raining. I'll then hit up a junkyard if it's still a clear day.(maybe, I'm a bit iffy about fishing one out - it may be bad as well. I'll probably sway towards car-part.com or Rockauto). Can you tell I'm expecting rain?

Just a few questions:

1- Only the case gets drained and not the whole trans?
2- What does a new case do to the hash marks I made on the old shaft?
3- Torque on said bolts
4- How much ATF and which brand go in the new case?

I'll have more as time goes on but I seem set at the moment.

EDIT:
Eh......help?

4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID F87A-7A195-CA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-AA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-CA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-CB
I know it isn't one of these two
AWD (full time), ID F87A-7A195-EA and EB
AWD (full time), ID XL24-7A195-EA
__________________

Thanks again,
-Andy
You know my title

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

I'm a bit iffy about fishing one out - it may be bad as well.

Most "auto recyclers" pull things like t-cases, transmissions, engines, etc before the vehicle goes out into the yard, and build the labor cost into the quoted price. So that $200 is for a case loaded into your trunk (or at least to their loading dock).

Also, most decent recyclers offer a 30-90 day warranty on parts. You might have to shop around, though.

Just a few questions:

1- Only the case gets drained and not the whole trans?
2- What does a new case do to the hash marks I made on the old shaft?
3- Torque on said bolts
4- How much ATF and which brand go in the new case?

1) You won't drain the trans, but you may loose a little fluid as the rear of the trans is open to the t-case flange.

This photo is on my V8 trans, yours should be similar:

2) Forget the marks, just install the shafts. If they vibrate, rotate them 180 degrees. I'd do the rear first, test the truck, then do the front.

3) Will have to look that up, it's an aluminum case, so not more than 50 ft-lbs. But damn tight, you don't want it falling off.

4) Good ol' Mercon/Dexron III, around 2 quarts. Buy three, and a hand pump.

Eh......help?

4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID F87A-7A195-CA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-AA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-CA
4x4 (part time, electric shift), ID XL24-7A195-CB

There should be a giant white sticker on your case with the part number to match. Maybe someone who knows the V6s better can chime in what the difference is between them, you might be able to interchange.

My guess is that one of those does not have the clutch (is closer to a ranger case), another has a speedo gear, another does not, and not sure about the 4th. I could be wrong, though.