No power going to Third break light

[wirewrapper]

hello, 100% new to the forums (and to owning a ford) My 1996 Explorer XLT wont pass inspection due to the third break light being out, so I started searching, found that it may be the ballast, found one at a junkyard for 75 bucks but before i picked it up i wanted to make sure there wasnt another issue, so i checked all fuses (least the ones i could find) they are all fine, then had a friend check and make sure power was going to the ballast, nothing with or without vehicle turned on and break pressed down.

are there any other things i should check? I have well to be honest less than basic skills when it comes to working on vehicles so the only thing i could think of is attempting to trace the wires and make sure everything is connected (that is if i can find where they all run through)

Thanks

 

[jremington59]

Check the 7.5 amp fuse in number 2 in the inside panel.

 

[wirewrapper]

checked, was fine but i put a new one in anyway just in case .. still nothing

 

[budwich]

the "easy test" is to run a power lead from either one of the other brakes OR temporary directly from the battery to see if things "light up" appropriately. That way you will know for sure whether you have a wiring issue or bad ballast/bulb.

 

[DaExplorer]

checked, was fine but i put a new one in anyway just in case .. still nothing

Did you test to see if there is power to this fuse? If not then problem is before. If power, issue is towards light. Another thing you might do is to test the ballast and light. unplug the power in to the ballast and put put power to it to see if it will light. My son used a battery charger/jumper with small test leads attached to test the ones we pick up at the junk yard.

$75 seems steep for the balast, have seen them for less on e-bay.

 

[wirewrapper]

thanks for all the replies so far, if it comes down to it (since i have to get it reinspected within a 15 day period) would it harm anything if i ran a line directly from one of the other break lights to it (at least till it passes) thatll give me more time to track down what the true problem is

 

[1996BLKBauer]

thanks for all the replies so far, if it comes down to it (since i have to get it reinspected within a 15 day period) would it harm anything if i ran a line directly from one of the other break lights to it (at least till it passes) thatll give me more time to track down what the true problem is

I wouldn't, I know what you are going to do, it will work for some time, but it will in time get corroded, then neither will work. Just bust out the good old Volt Meter, and start at the battery, and trace it all the way back to the light.

Start with fuse #13, which is a 15amp Fuse, then go to Fuse #2, which is a 7.5 amp Fuse. From there it goes directly to the lamp, if you got power up to there you may possible have a bad ground. I just pulled up the wiring diagram, not a whole lot there. Not to be an ass, but are the bulbs OK? I have seen people spend money on things they didn't need when the bulbs where just bad.

 

[wirewrapper]

as far as i know everythings ok other than theres no power going to that third breaklight (ballast/neon tube) I do want to get it fixed properly but at the moment i only have a couple days left till i have to get it reinspected and almost no cash to do anything to it (like a replacement kit) if i could just cover the light and it would pass it would be great but due to lovely laws .. if theres a light on the vehicle .. it has to operate

Thanks for the fuse numbers, as soon as i get a friend down here with volt meter at least ill have a place to start

 

[1996BLKBauer]

as far as i know everythings ok other than theres no power going to that third breaklight (ballast/neon tube) I do want to get it fixed properly but at the moment i only have a couple days left till i have to get it reinspected and almost no cash to do anything to it (like a replacement kit) if i could just cover the light and it would pass it would be great but due to lovely laws .. if theres a light on the vehicle .. it has to operate

Thanks for the fuse numbers, as soon as i get a friend down here with volt meter at least ill have a place to start

The diagram i pulled does not show a ballast in the circuit. it shows the 2 fuses, and the brake switch in the circuit. That's all.

 

[dads2vette]

I've got a 97 mountaineer that had the same problem. I had power to the balast light wasn't working. Checked prices on bulb...forget that. I removed the balast and bulb replaced them with an LED light kit for $12. I brought the lens to the store so I could match up the bulbs and the space they had to fit. Works as the third break light only. Passed NYS inspection and still works great.

 

[budwich]

The diagram i pulled does not show a ballast in the circuit. it shows the 2 fuses, and the brake switch in the circuit. That's all.

its "misleading"... there is a ballast and neon tube unless his truck has been modded. Anyways, it doesn't matter since he isn't getting voltage coming into the "unit". His best bet is to run a temporary wire to get him thru the inspection and then continue his hunt. Search of recent thread will show others with similar issues that used the technique for a temporary "solution".

 

[RickOTR]

On my 97 there is a fusible link along the interior floor of the left trim panel. Maybe it's the same on the 96, don't know but it's worth a try.

 

[jremington59]

It makes sense to have a fusable link there with the price of that light.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

It makes sense to have a fusable link there with the price of that light.

Fusable links are hard to tell if they have blown, this could be the problem.