Has anyone actually changed the rear shocks on their SPORT TRAC?

[SeanTrvs]

I second those who said that getting the boots on was the hardest part as i'm pretty sure I got 5000 boots for my 9000's lol.
Also, ratchet wrenches are the way to go.

 

[smalltownusa]

Today I dropped the vapor canister down, and was able to get a standard
13 mm wrench on the driver side rear bolt. A little victory I will take !

At this point I have the forward top bolts on each shock that I cannot get my standard 13 mm on, and one bottom bolt that I need a breaker bar before I get a hernia.

Going to try the suggestion, of buying a set of swivel head ratchet wrenches from Harbor Freight.

Took a break to check my noisy heater blower, In the past I had noticed what I thought was the liner under the hood rubbing on something.
I removed the motor, and found a huge amount of material stuffed inside the squirrel cage. It was a wonder the blower fan moved any air at all. So that's why my hood liner was disappearing. I don't have any idea how something got inside my blower motor. I think the only access is through the tiny vents on the cowl. One less thing on my repair list.

 

[smalltownusa]

Well it has been a few days, and when I am able I take a little time to work on freeing those crazy nuts. It sure has been slow, but I have made progress. I am down to one top rear nut: The forward driver side nut.

To get the forward passenger shock free I used 1/2 " six sided ratchet wrench. I realize they are originally 13 mm, but the rust has taken it toll. I even tried to sneak a nut cracker in there Late tomorrow I will try again. I wish there was enough room to use my Dremel with a cutting disc, but I'm not so sure I can get it in position to do the cut.

I've already decided on my new shocks: a set of KYB gas adjust. I read quite a few posts on this forum, and people liked them. I priced them on line, and they are over a $100 cheaper than can be had locally.

 

[smalltownusa]

Success at last !!!!!!!!

All the shock bolts are off. I was just able to get my big head up in there, and eyeball on the nut with the Vapor Canister removed. The method I used to finally get the remaining rear top bolt off was to use a pointed punch, and tap it with a small hammer on the corner of the bolt. That seemed to turn it enough to break the rust bond. I worked the nut slowly back and forth with a 1/2" open end wrench as the nut was getting damaged. It still took a while, but I was happy just to be able to turn it slightly back and forth until it moved freely then move it up the threads a little more. I would occasionally spray the bolt with PB blaster.
Not only was this a pain in the rear, but my neck is sore trying to eyeball the nut.

I hope if somebody in the future is having the same issue they give the pointed punch a try if all else has failed.

 

[KajunBndit]

I had mine removed and new shocks installed on Wednesday March 6, my daughter had helped me handing the tools that I needed. LOLOL. I live in South Louisiana, So the bolts and nuts were't rusted because it doesn't snow down here and salts are never added to the roads during the winter months. Rear shocks had to be original because the bolts were riveted to the shocks, my truck has 118,000 miles on it. It had taken me about 2 and a half hours to three hours to replace the shocks with Monroe Adjustments. I had taken the spare tire off and removed the canister. Using ratchet wrenches really helps with the removal and installation of the shocks.